» GruppeM Air Intake Sammelbestellung

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The unit itself (filter, box, pipe etc) are all top quality. The real issues with the kit are:

1. you require the standard airbox to modify part of the rubber hose to fit this kit
2. the bracket that holds the box to the car does not line up correctly and takes a lot of fiddling to get right. The bolt actually came undone when I was driving and I lost it. I've since had to put in a longer bolt with double nuts and some Loctite to get it to stay there.
3. the box cannot be removed without taking the whole unit off the car, not a simple task to replace the air filter
4. The clamp that holds the box and filter to the backing plate WILL rub against your battery and possibly through the side of it after a period of time.
   
   Responsiveness and torque seem a little better low to mid than the injen CAI I was using.
   
   Kit lacks a little polish in the fitting department but other than that it is top notch. 7/10

Zitat

No small task to fit the thing. The battery has to move to the right as far as possible. A radiator hose bracket in the area below the stock filter has to be removed to allow the mouth of the air scoop to drop low enough. The supplied bracket must have been for another make or model since it came nowhere near fitting. In the closer shot of the unit you can see the alloy bracket extension that is bolted to one of the stock air filter box fixing points.

The fitting diagram did not seem to show what the included K&N plastic elbow in the Gruppe M's circular back plate connected to. Obviously meant to be a hose but there wasn't a disconnected one from the stock air intake. I blanked it off for the time being.

Like wise there didn't appear to be an indication that the sensor that was fitted to the stock air intake just short of the throttle body had to be refitted to the 90 degree rubber elbow that connects to the throttle body and the back plate of the Gruppe M unit. The instruction sheet was in Japanese which didn't help. Without it fitted the malfunction light on the speedo comes on so I'm guessing this sensor is for air temp and or flow.

The 0135 image shows an insulation mod to the plenum chamber to reduce the radiated heat off the cam cover. The simplest way is cut up an air cell type windscreen shield and fix it with plastic cable ties. The heat is not enough to melt anything or to warrant the use of high tech insulation. It does make a noticeable difference with slightly better power at low to medium revs and smoother feel to the engine. The holes at the upper section of the intake manifold cover are just before the foam strip along the underside. That foam form a hot air dam. I've seen the whole cover drilled out but that is not necessary. Those two mods was stage 1 to avoid doing more than one thing at a time.

The Gruppe M unit also makes a noticeable increase in power and responsiveness at low to medium revs. That is not imagination since I used to build nitro 500 cc bike engines. Of course the real proof is a dyno test before and after but who can afford that sort of thing. But then a dyno test of a short RAM air system is not conclusive because there is zero forward speed.

The fitting hassles aside the unit is effective and I'm pleased with it. I'd tend to think though that if someone had not been around engines and wanted to fit a Gruppe M then take it to a good auto mechanic.

The sensor mentioned is the manifold absoluter pressure (MAP) and must be fitted into the 90 deg rubber elbow connecting to the throttle body. Given the Honda engineers located the sensor in the stock system 2 inches from the throttle body for a reason the positioning was duplicated in the Gruppe M elbow. The groove in the rubber grommet from the stock intake system isn't wide enough to fit the thicker rubber elbow, but some silicone sealer holds it OK.

There is more to it though and the conversion isn't complete until this is done. The engine control unit (ECU) should be reset by pulling fuse 14 (blue 15 amp) from the centre row in the cabin fuse compartment. With the old running data dumped start the engine without touching the throttle and let it idle until the cold engine light goes out. Shut off the engine. Next time on start up the start and idle data has been set for the new conditions. Likewise the ecu adds running data from that point as you drive.

The difference between not resetting the ecu and resetting is quite noticeable. Obviously the ecu uses the old data for the stock intake system. Nobody can actually agree whether the ecu relearns if it is not reset, but it didn't appear to during the 15km drive before resetting.

Mach mit!